Monday, June 28, 2010

I hope heaven doesn't have so many tourists

One sight of China's history that just slipped from our first three days in Beijing was the Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan). Accordingly, it was first on the list upon our return from the northeast.

It was a place for ritual sacrifice by the emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties, to spur a good harvest. In fact, the word for "temple" also translates as "altar" - in this sense it is very different from a Buddhist temple. It is a large park complex with a handful of significant and interesting buildings. It is also on most tourists' lists of "must do" Beijing, so it was crowded.

The most impressive sight was the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. This three-roofed structure was an architectural marvel. It is made with no nails whatsoever, just well-fitting wooden pieces. Alas, because of its shape, location, and topping golden ball, it is also a magnet for lightning and has had to be rebuilt several times.



The other highly impressive spot was the Circular Mound Altar, where the actual sacrifices took place. This raised platform had some hidden mathematics, with each ring on the altar containing a multiple of nine stones (9, 18, 27, and so on). This connected the altar to the solar system. There were so many people here, the top of the altar was akin to a cattle call.


Seeking some relief from the crowds, we headed towards the emperor's Hall of Abstinence. This residence was built as a small miniature of the Forbidden City. It was a neat complex, surrounded by a dry moat, and containing a number of nice courtyards, passageways, and small buildings. It also had one very large bell.





The final place we found in this complex brought the most depth in terms of cultural history. It was the Administration of Divine Music. Contained within were a number of outdated instruments that formed the imperial orchestra. Lots of oddly shaped wind and string pieces here to catch my fancy. None playable by us, however.



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