When I asked my friend the bilingual Japanese man for a restaurant recommendation for lunch the next day, he didn't hesitate: soba, he said. Well, then he hesitated: "Soba is a personal thing. Everyone has their own favorite soba place." Probably true, but not all that helpful. One of his comrades stepped in and offered up Yakumo-an, conveniently near all the sites. And it was a great recommendation.
First up was hot soba, with slices of duck and green onions. The temperature was perfect (hot but not scalding), the duck and duck fat delicious, and the whole combination delectable.
Second was cold soba. Apparently, the test of any soba place is the quality of its cold noodle - that's when you can really taste the flavor of the buckwheat. And Yakumo-an delivered. The identical bowls came with a side of garnishes (daikon, green onions, seaweed, and bonito flakes) and a pot of soy sauce. I tried both plain and the works and both were superb.
Best yet, during the whole lunch I got to stare at my bike looking so happy in a lovely little rock garden.
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