Cosmopolitan Turkey on foot

With a day of full eating behind me, it was time to being some explorations of Istanbul's neighborhoods. My first pick was a walk that would take me through several, starting in Taksim Square, venturing down the pedestrian super-highway of Istiklal, down the hill through Galata to the Bosphorus seafront, where I would find a cutting-edge modern art museum.

First came a ride on one of Istanbul's numerous modes of public transport. This one was a normal looking subway, the Metro.

I got off at Taksim Square and meandered down Istiklal, taking many diversions into side streets. These were filled with shops of all kinds, but especially cafes, restaurants, and bars. Many had sidewalk seating. With the streets being old and narrow, often all that was left for walking was a little strip two people wide in the middle. The hustle and bustle on a Friday midday was incredible. Out of seemingly nowhere poked the St. Anthony Catholic Church.

Another side street brought another random encounter, this time with the Istanbul Culinary Institute.

I didn't have time to linger, though, so I am left wondering about the quality of the school and of its student-run restaurant.

Another diversion, this time for a restroom, turned into a time travel trip. Having paid my 1YTL entrance fee, I went down a long marble staircase. I then came to three rooms, which had a previous life, however long ago, as a public bath (or hamam).

I reached the end of Istiklal and began my descent to the Bosphorus. Down Galipdede Caddesi, the street that would be my home when I return to Istanbul next week with my family, I spotted the Galata Tower.

Narrow and steep streets were filled with houses and the routines of daily life. The architecture was fascinating, old and a bit dilapidated. Having reached the Bosphorus at last, I appeared at my final destination, the Istanbul Modern.

For starters, I couldn't resist the incredible contrast right outside the doors of the museum, with the sign contrasting with an old mosque next door. The museum itself was a modern concrete edifice with two floors of art. A bit of a mixed bag, though some pieces did catch my eye. There was a sculpture of a 12 year old boy carrying several cartons of eggs. He was in the middle of tripping, and plastic eggs were shooting forth from him into the space of the gallery, a very dramatic effect. The artist intended to play with the audience's notion of surprise and anticipated fear. Another couple of paintings had bold, brightly colored brushstrokes showing the human body in motion. Captivating. Finally, in the basement, by the library, an installation had strung hundreds of books up so they hung, one by one, about 8 feet in the air. It created a false ceiling of literariness, a great place to just stare straight up.

The museum's balcony had fabulous views of the Bosphorus and of Sultanahmet, where many of Istanbul's most famous sights are located. What a lovely place for a cup of coffee.